 Dolphins...
dolphins; we know we're getting south when they start playing in our wake.
 Saturday,
November 22, 2003
We couldn't resist a walk to the post office, the one we had trouble finding on
the way up. This time we docked at Motts Channel Seafood where we bought
the fish last night. Kay walked the 2 blocks to mail letters. Then we
headed south again past gorgeous homes. Most of them have docks, but the
water is shallow outside the channel, so the boats are small and go fast.
The day is sunny and beautiful with temperatures in the 70s. There was
considerable traffic on the water as people fished or cruised and enjoyed their
day off. The tide was against us going through Snow Cut. It was
swirling at the northern entrance. We followed some sailboats through
because there isn't much room for passing. When we got to the Cape Fear
River the tide was with us, and we had  a good ride all the way down.
Pearce had to put on some power when we made the right turn into the ICW.
The tide wanted to take us on out to the inlet. We had passed a big tanker
headed up river, watched another being loaded on the starboard shore, and could
see two more coming in from the ocean. Some little boats passed us in both
directions, but there were few people out playing on this big river. They
must do their playing on land because we saw two of the ferries that bring cars
and people from Southport to Carolina Beach, and we saw the people ferry heading
out to Bald Island from Southport.
  The ICW from Southport to Lockwood's Folly Inlet has some definite
shoals. Since we were passing through a low tide, we had to be
cautious. At least we could see the shoals. There were several
teenagers walking along the waterline in front of the bulkheads. They
would be up to their knees at high tide. Further on down people were out
digging for clams and oysters. By the way, there is also a Lockwood's
Folly River, but I haven't been able to find any mention of who Lockwood was or
what his folly entailed. There are more gorgeous homes along the
waterfront, and we can look across the marshes toward the ocean to see the silhouettes
of houses on stilts -- just like Gilgo Beach multiplied many times over.
Sunset Beach Pontoon Bridge is the only bridge of its kind left on the Atlantic
ICW. It is only one car wide, and at high tide the cars go up the ramp
leading onto the pontoon and down the other side. At low tide they go down
the ramp to the bridge and up the far side. From the water you can watch
them slowly bump onto the bridge. When it comes time to open on the hour,
the bridge tender lowers the gates and using a cable that runs from one side to
the other turns the pontoon until it is lying sideways to the channel.
Once he lowers the cable the boats can pass through. Only very small and
narrow skiffs can get under the side openings, so there is quite a collection of
assorted vessels awaiting the hourly opening.
We thought about anchoring in the Calabash River, but Pearce decided that it was
time to refresh the water supply, and Kay said she needed some milk and fresh
produce. We tried the Marsh Harbour Marina, but their telephone was
disconnected, so we called Dock Holiday in Little River, SC. Even though
their price was higher ($40 compared to $25), we found  that the Food Lion was a
1/4 mile down the road. There is even a West Marine just beyond it, but
wouldn't you know we don't need anything. We plugged Kibon in for
the night. They have cable TV, but it wasn't working at the slip so Pearce
set up the dish TV so he could watch a movie.
Sunday, November 23, 2003
We filled our wheeled cart at the grocery store, and Pearce headed toward Myrtle
Beach while Kay squeezed everything into the refrigerator and cabinets.   We
stopped at the Barefoot Landing free dock again. They don't have any water
or electricity, but they have great shops and overpriced restaurants. Kay
spent $13 on a blouse and a scarf. We had a coupon for a free appetizer
with the purchase of an entree, so Pearce had fish and chips and Kay had the
free calamari.
We've finally decided that we do have some sort of schedule to keep -- Jason and
Gina arrive in Boynton Beach on December 14. So rather than spend the day
at the free dock, we headed down the Pine Island Cut.  This is another
place where shoaling occurs at run-offs from all the construction lining the
sides. There are also some rocky ledges that poke out, but they're well
marked. The new marina is still being built. Right now it is a huge
hole lined with cement walls. Maybe it will be finished when we come
back next year. We passed many golf course settlements. One had a
sign out front that said < New York 650 miles, Miami 713 miles
>. That must mean that we are only half way home.
It's tough to put in long days when the sun goes down earlier now. Pearce
is up early, so Kay says, "I'll stay in bed while you start."
But somehow the engines wake her up.
We ended the day at the Bucksport Plantation Marina. The owner, Don
McCurry, helped us tie up
and showed us around his place. The docks are all new, and he says he's
putting in a gas and diesel dock for next year. The shower and laundry
rooms are new and very clean. There's a heater to chase away the early
morning chill, and there's a regular stall shower and a fancy double seater.
The laundry room has two machines and dryers, an iron and ironing board, a
radio, and a library. Don's store has all kinds of things, even milk and
juice. We didn't buy any of the reportedly wonderful sausage because we
didn't have a space to fit it -- maybe on the trip back. The restaurant at
the dock closed early. Don says this is Baptist country and everyone goes
back to church on Sunday evening.
Monday, November 24, 2003
Pearce tried out the new showers at the marina while Kay made breakfast.
There's not much traffic out today. We hear about some sailboats behind
us, but we only see the cypress trees and the lonely splendor of the Waccamaw
River. We're going against the tide for most of the way to
Georgetown and Winyah Bay.  The wind has picked up and is blowing 20 knots
straight up the river. When the tide finally turns we speed over the
bottom and down the bay, but it's rather bouncy because the wind is against
us. We make the turn into the Estherville Minim Creek Canal. Now we
are against the tide, but we are in calmer waters. By nightfall we've arrived at
McClellanville, South Carolina, a small fishing village that was settled in the
1700s. We're anchored just off the intersection where the shrimp boats pass by
returning from their day at sea. Very picturesque!
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